Have
you ever passed by someone or something and caught a whiff of their fragrance and then
you go to a perfume store or you try describing the scent to someone and you
kept drawing blanks? It’s happened to me
a couple of times. It so frustrating! I
still can’t seem to find the words to best describe what I smell.
I know a lot more than I did last week but I
figured since we are on this journey together, my little knowledge is worth
sharing. Besides, I promised I would do a post on perfumery terms.
WARNING!
This
might get very long and sometimes confusing but if you stick with me just a few
more minutes after you have rolled your
eyes into your forehead or involuntarily scratched your head more than once,
you’ll see the light at the end of the tunnel…no, you’re not dead, you just
became enLIGHTened! Here goes…
Absolute:
Absolute is derived from a solvent
extraction process. During this extraction process, plant materials are immersed
in solvents like hexane to form a thick substance called concrete. The concrete
is then mixed with alcohol to release the oil. The alcohol solvent is then
removed by subjecting it to very low temperature distillation, after which
remains the Absolute. Solvent extraction is used for plants that are too
fragile for distillation or would not yield their essence easily. Delicate
flowers like jasmine, narcissus, tuberose, rose and orange blossom are often
rendered in absolute form. Absolute is the purest form of an essential oil and
is a little closer to the scent you would get from smelling the flower.
Accord:
Accord is a combination of different essences (scents) to create a totally new
and unique essence or fragrance, like mixing red and blue to make purple. Each essence
loses its unique identity lending it to all others to form the accord which becomes
an entity on its own, a base from which many fragrances can be created. For
instance a chypre accord which may be used as a base for rich floral perfumes,
could be built around bergamot, oakmoss and labdanum.
Aldehyde: Although there are many aldehydes used in
perfumery and they don’t all smell the same, often I hear people describe it as
fatty, soapy, fizzy, fruity and sparkly. I'm not quite sure how it all fits
since I haven’t had the opportunity to smell all the different types of
aldehyde. However, based on my studies, aldehyde is a type of organic chemical,
often used in perfumery. The chemical that gives cinnamon its unique smell and vanillin
which is a major component in vanilla are both aldehydes. Of course those two
smell nothing alike and cannot be describe as soapy or fruity. However, the
aliphatic aldehydes would fit those descriptions perfectly. They have this
citrusy or floral scent and sometimes, woody or pine scent. Although aldehydes
were made popular by the ample amount featured in chanel No. 5, there is hardly
any fragrance in existence without some amount of aldehyde in it.
I
shall stop here today, one day, we shall get to Z! Until then, let me know if there is any
fragrance term you would like to add even perfumista slangs!
Let us also know how to differentiate eau de parfum from toilette and all the other eaus that may exist. What does eau mean anyway?
ReplyDeletelol! sure will but you have to be patient until we get to E.
ReplyDelete